andrefimenko Wrote:Очень рад, что ты уловил мою мысль о различной влиятельности разных параметров.

andrefimenko Wrote:Амортизаторы.
Они не играют роль в развесовке, как мне показалось пока ещё считает zbone. Они регулируют скорость переноса веса машины при переходе из одной стадии поворота в другую.

zbone Wrote:Также Dale Jr на форуме iR выкладывал небольшой то, как он настраивает подвеску, по некоторым основным параметрам. Но он явно ориентирован на продвинутых людей - я там большую часть не понял.

andrefimenko Wrote:Про амортизаторы хочу ещё добавить.
Это в общем-то несколько двоякая хрень. Я уже писал про инерционные толчки. Но чтоб быть точным надо сказать, что более жёсткий амортизатор всё-таки хуже держит дорогу, но если его "размягчать" до упора, то он начинает плохо удерживать машину от раскачивания и наступает обратный эффект - срывы из-за инерционных толчков.

Moged Wrote:У амортизаторов есть два регулятора: сжатие и отбой. Поэтому понятие жесткий и мягкий амортизатор не совсем верно. Ведь можно сделать его мягким на сжатие и жестким на отбой и наоборот (хотя наоборот вроде как бессмысленно).

Moged Wrote:дай ссылку или скинь текст, попробую разобраться

Dale Earnhardt Jr Wrote:Speaking about the Ovals here

Shock collars are a term from coil-over shocks, it is a ring threaded onto the shock body that the spring rests against. So if you spin that ring around due to the threading you can move it up or down the shock body, thus changing the resting position of the spring, and thus altering your ride height.

Of course altering your ride height will then screw up your camber/caster/weight distribution/etc, so you have some work to do!

If you put a different spring in there it will rest at a different compression length, so the ride height just changed - you can just tweak the shock collar to get the right height back again.

Its used to set your ride heights and wedge/cross. Those two things mainly anyways.

My take on the sway bar arm length is that a shorter arm will "wind" or "load" the bar quicker. As the car rolls into the corner and twist the swaybar, a shorter arm will speed that instance up. A longer arm would slow it down. Think of a shorter arm as being a stronger arm. Not meaning one is better than the other. I tried a shorter arm at a test in Phoenix on the left front. As the car rolled onto the RF on entrance it begins to wind up the swaybar. This drives the leftside swaybar arm up and forces the left front suspension into more travel. It allowed the splitter to be lower to the ground and we gained some downforce. It hurt front mechanical grip though as it forced the left front suspension into more travel, this is trying to pull the left front tire off the ground.

One thing I always pay attention to is the swaybar gap. Anytime you make adjustments on the car the gap will change. Its important that you "reset" this back to its original position after each change. Anytime we scale our cars we unhook the swaybar all together and it is the last thing that is "reset" before the car hits the track again. Some drivers prefer to have "load" in the swaybar. This means the bar is working before the car rolls onto the rf on corner entrance. A neutral swaybar should have a gap of 0/16 ingame. If you move this into the negative numbers you are adding "load" on the bar which will tighten the car up. I rarely run my setups with positive numbers (ex. +3/16). This is an unloaded bar and the car will travel or roll into the corner on the rightfront as if the bar is unhooked. So what I do is always keep this neutral one click to the negative side.

The other adjustment I have been fooling with is caster. A typical caster setting from my experience is about +1 on the LF and 3.5 on the RF. Thats very basic and typical. If you moved the caster toward negative on the leftfront the car should turn down into the corner better on entrance. I have had some sucess with running negative caster in the left front in the latemodels. For those of you who ran NR2003, you would remember having to turn right to go straight. This is the split or diference in the caster settings left and right. More split should make the car turn more, but as a general rule I rarely run over 2 degrees of split. If I dont want the car to steer left on the straights I close up the split by lowering the rightfront most often. I havent had much sucess running a high positive caster setting on the left front.

I also work a bit with front stagger, or the lack of it in my latemodel sets. Most people know that more rear stagger helps the car turn. Well its the oposite with front stagger. When you take front stagger out, it makes the left front tire bigger, or the rightfront tire smaller. Think of it like a spring, less rightfront will cause a loose condition. I lessen the front stagger to help my car turn on entrance. This has a habit of causing wheel spin or just plain loose off but I go in other directions to help that. Seems there are very few things you can do to get a car to properly turn in on entrance, here in the sim, and in real life. Front stagger and the above mentioned left front caster changes have helped me.

Hope this helps someone else.